Dead White Man’s Clothes (2021)

Dead White Man’s Clothes, a 2021 documentary directed by Sofia Pineda Ochoa, sheds light on a hidden consequence of our global fashion addiction. Beneath the glitz and glamour of the fashion industry lies a dark secret: the fate of our discarded clothing. This film takes us to the bustling markets of Accra, Ghana, where a flood of second-hand garments from the West arrives, creating an environmental catastrophe.

Here’s a glimpse into the urgent narrative of Dead White Man’s Clothes:

1. The Arrival: Every week, some 15 million used garments pour into Accra from the UK, Europe, North America, and Australia. These clothes, once donated to charity, find their way to Ghana’s sprawling clothing market. But a staggering 40 percent of them are of such poor quality that they are deemed worthless upon arrival.
2. Kantamanto Markets: Accra’s Kantamanto markets, a labyrinth of 5,000 retailers, overflow with the West’s unwanted fashion. Competition is fierce, and clothes are discounted by day’s end. Entrepreneurs salvage high-end pieces with minor defects, mending and dyeing them for resale.
3. The Burden Bearers: Transporting the 55kg bales around the teeming bazaar is impossible by mechanical means. Enter Accra’s head porters, or kayayei—the women who carry the burden. Aisha Iddrisu, one such woman, has been doing this since she was 12 years old. She travels back and forth from her remote northern village to Accra, trying to earn enough money to support her family.
4. Fast Fashion’s Toll: The film exposes the ruthless “fast fashion” brands that drive global clothing consumption. Overproduction—up to 40 percent more than needed—fuels waste. These discarded clothes, shipped to Ghana for resale, end up in rotting textile mountains.
5. Environmental Catastrophe: The ragged landfill cliffs along the Korle Lagoon tell the story. An estimated 60 percent of the landfill consists of unwanted clothing. The environmental impact is staggering. As global clothing consumption skyrockets, we face a crisis.
6. Legacy and Responsibility: Dead White Man’s Clothes challenges us to rethink our relationship with fashion. Brands must be accountable for their waste. We must cherish our clothing, repair it, and extend its life. Our choices ripple across continents.
7. A Call for Change: The documentary isn’t just about Ghana; it’s about our shared responsibility. Let’s break free from the cycle of disposable fashion. By valuing our clothes, we can protect our planet—one garment at a time.

In this urgent plea, Dead White Man’s Clothes invites us to see beyond trends and labels—to recognize the true cost of our fashion choices.